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Whether you are a handkerchief aficionado or simply a fan of men's clothing trends, the etiquette of this accessory can prove to be a sartorial minefield, which is why we present below our guide to the handkerchief.
Knowing how to match ties with pocket squares is an essential skill that every aspiring gentleman should perfect.
In this detailed guide, we cover how to match ties to your pocket squares based on considerations of color, pattern, and fabric.
Do you often wish you had the perfect accessory to complete your suit ensemble, whether you're sporting a tie or not?
Something that could instantly add a touch of flair and panache with minimal effort? With the recent surge in popularity of pocket squares, we thought it would be a good idea to create a guide for mixing and matching ties with your pocket squares.
After all, a man with accessories is often better dressed than one without.
And since there are more and more opportunities to mix and match colors, patterns, and fabrics, it's in our best interest to introduce variety into our wardrobes and create new, exciting, and interesting ways to dress every day.
By ensuring that the stagnation of the past is drowned and replaced by excitement, novelty and our own creativity.
The main rule to remember when matching ties to your pocket squares is that they don't have to be an exact match!
If colours are to complement each other, reproducing the pattern of your tie with your pocket square is a tried and tested way to achieve mediocrity.
Just as the other pieces of your outfit differ in color and fabric (your suit, your shirt and your tie), your pocket square should also be different!
The size of a handkerchief has a surprisingly large impact on the styles of folds and pocket squares you can achieve, and therefore on how it looks in your jacket or suit pocket.
A silk scarf is lightweight by nature, and therefore any scarf smaller than 40 cm (16 inches) will tend to slip into your pocket. As you move around during the day or evening, you'll constantly have to retrieve it from your pocket, which will diminish the initial appeal of wearing it.
Avoid inexpensive pouches smaller than 40 cm and invest in a 40-45 cm square. This rule also applies to other lightweight fabrics such as wool/silk, cotton, and linen.
The only exception to this rule concerns pouches made from a heavy fabric such as tweed, because any square larger than about 30 cm will hardly fit in your pocket once folded.
Historically, the pocket square was a necessity for guests at dinners and other formal engagements . The classic fashion of the pocket square for elegant occasions remains the same today: a white, handkerchief-style pocket square, folded flat (we will come back to this later).
However, even within the context of formal attire, it is still possible to experiment with your arrangement and break away from the standard white pocket square rule.
We are sometimes asked if there is a time when you shouldn't carry a handkerchief. The answer is no. Once you get used to carrying a handkerchief, you'll realize that not carrying one is like leaving the house without shoes.
It's really a matter of degree. If you want to go for a very conservative look, choose a pocket square that's only one or two shades lighter than your jacket and opt for a flat fold, or something that offers just a little contrast, like a dark brown polka dot square.
Monochromatic tones work well with pocket squares paired with black or gray suits, for example, while a vibrant red adds interest to bright blue suits , especially in summer. A puff pleat can also offer a more relaxed approach to formal dressing than the classic flat pleat.
More recently, the resurgence in popularity of the handkerchief has allowed men to elevate their everyday look and demonstrate a bit of sartorial flair.
We like to keep a plain white silk handkerchief for formal occasions, but even then we like to mix it with a bit of texture or a subtle variation in color.
The reason this works so well in formal environments is that you still have the traditional white base, but having the variation will give your outfit a little more interest than a flat white color.
It also goes without saying that while the flat pleat is classic, you will get far more compliments with a pleat showing a bit more flair, such as a puff pleat or a slanted peak pleat.
A predominantly white pocket square with a colored border or a light pattern offers a relatively conservative look that will suit any professional environment.
A well-tailored suit or jacket is certainly a strong sign of a man, but to really stand out, it's your accessories that make all the difference.
Just look at the difference a simple pocket square can make to a relatively plain jacket. It's not about a bold color combination or a flamboyant fold, but a subtle accent showcasing our pocket square, perfectly suited to the workplace.
In fact, that's one of the reasons why we created Cravate Gentleman. We felt there was a shortage of truly unique and interesting men's accessories.
We have therefore partnered with some of the world’s greatest galleries to try and create remarkable accessories that you can see in our online shop.
When matching pocket squares with ties, a sure way to achieve the best color combinations is to use a color wheel .
The color wheel can be intimidating when you haven't memorized it, so it's a good idea to have one handy when you're feeling adventurous.
Our favorite is the one we established at Cravate Gentleman, as it contains all the essential nuances of the wardrobe and is easy to understand.
Try using a combination of complementary (directly opposite), triadic (equilateral triangle), or analogous (adjacent) colors when experimenting with color for the first time.
Complementary colors are located directly opposite each other on the color wheel and create the strongest contrast . Pair a blue tie with an orange pocket square, a red tie with a green pocket square (although it might be a bit too Christmassy!), or a purple tie with a yellow pocket square.
Although these combinations may be daring, they will allow you to stand out without looking like a Charles Barkley stand-in, as they will make you look like you have coordinated colors.
Triadic color schemes are colors that are formed by creating an equilateral triangle . Thus, blue, red, and yellow form a triadic color scheme, as do green, orange, and purple.
Although these contrasts aren't as strong as a complementary color scheme, these colors enhance each other well. Triadic color combinations create harmony because they balance warm and cool colors.
A royal blue tie with a red pocket square or a navy blue tie with a burgundy/brown pocket square will both contribute to a refined and elegant ensemble.
For more harmonious color schemes, analogous color schemes are your best option . An analogous color scheme involves choosing colors that are adjacent on the color wheel.
Thus, although a true sense of harmony (balance between warm and cool colors) is not achieved, a scheme of analogous colors gives a sophisticated, but muted appearance.
Analogous color schemes generally involve choosing two warmer colors or two cooler colors. For example, a blue tie can be paired with a purple pocket square.
This scheme is soothing to the eye, as adjacent colors on the color wheel tend to create a feeling of confidence. Try a blue tie with a green or lilac pocket square, for example.
If one of your two accessories (tie or pocket square) is a neutral color, the other can be any color you choose . Neutral colors go well with everything.
Most of the time, there are only two main rules for choosing the color of your tuxedo pocket square. If it is a formal Black Tie event, it is generally considered appropriate to wear a white pocket square in a presidential fold (flat fold) or a conservative puff fold.
However, for the vast majority of events you'll attend, a pocket square with a pop of color is more than acceptable, and it's often a way to stand out from the crowd. It's also worth considering wearing a tuxedo in a bolder color than standard black.
A question we are often asked is whether you should match your tie and pocket square. The short answer is no. While it may seem like an easy way to coordinate your outfit, matching your pocket square and tie or bow tie is something to avoid in modern attire .
The purpose of a pocket square is primarily to complement the rest of your look , either harmonizing with or contrasting it with your other accessories. Therefore, while some stores offer matching tie and pocket square sets, we advise against them if you want to project a polished image.
If your pocket square has a pattern or print, for example, choose a color from this palette to unify your look and pair it with a primary color from your ties, as in the image below. The burgundy of the tie is echoed in certain parts of the pocket square.
You can also choose a pocket square in a lighter or darker color than the main color of your outfit. Remember, it's all in the details, so don't be afraid to add an accent color to a subtle striped or checked shirt.
Below are some examples of tie and pocket square combinations in three of the most popular jacket colors: navy, grey and brown.
We will begin with navy blue. The combinations range from a very subtle complementarity of colors in the first image to more obvious colors in the second and third images.
Below are a few combinations of grey jackets. We particularly like the third image, which pairs a yellow tie with our pocket square, creating a striking contrast with the jacket.
Finally, we offer you some combinations with brown jackets in different shades.
If you want your pocket square to be the focal point of your look, you can choose to coordinate it with your tie and the rest of your outfit . So don't hesitate to experiment with bright colors or eclectic prints, especially in summer when you're more likely to wear lighter colors.
Now that you know you should never directly match your pocket square and tie, we have established below some basic rules regarding ties and pocket squares, so that you always have a flawless look.
Below you will find a practical guide for choosing your pocket square:
Silk is one of the most popular fabrics for clutch bags. Not only is silk very luxurious, but it's also the perfect material for vibrant colors.
Indeed, when light strikes it from different angles, it can produce different color variations, adding real interest to an outfit. Silk is also known for being a fine fabric, which allows for a number of intricate pleats to be created for silk clutches.
However, the main reason we use silk for the majority of our pouches is the incredible detail that can be achieved by working with a quality fabric .
Silk is the perfect canvas to offer both image sharpness and the vibrancy of different shades.
One of the most underrated fabrics for pocket squares is a silk and wool blend. It takes the best of both worlds—the luxurious feel of silk and the texture of wool—to create a beautiful, lightweight fabric .
The result isn't as glossy as silk and therefore more suited to certain situations, but it has a unique texture that pairs beautifully with silk ties. The combination of the two materials makes it very lightweight.
Wool tends to make it wrinkle-resistant, allowing it to drape beautifully and hold all sorts of folds. Silk adds a subtle sheen and highlights the details.
The most common blend is 70% wool and 30% silk. While 100% wool pouches are more suitable for winter and autumn, a wool and silk blend works year-round.
Compared to other fabrics, this blend pairs particularly well with all suiting fabrics. You can wear either a wool and mohair blend or a heavier fabric like tweed or herringbone. It is therefore very versatile and makes a solid addition to any collection.
On a pouch like the one on the left, we chose wool/silk as the fabric because it gives a perfect result - the texture is very visible on the light parts of the painting, while the silk allows the blue and yellow to shine.
The result is a pocket square that can be paired with both dark and light suits and blazers. The one on the right, however, possesses both the sheen of silk and the lightweight texture of wool, making it a perfect summer square.
The texture is also an ideal complement to the patterns, which are historical decor, giving them a certain old-world charm.
Linen is one of the oldest fabrics in the world, and it is made entirely of natural materials. It is very durable yet very lightweight. Therefore, linen pouches are often associated with summer, when lighter fabrics are preferred .
They are less lustrous than silk and can be worn with a contrasting fabric, such as a tuxedo for a black-tie event, but a double-breasted linen jacket also pairs beautifully with a linen pocket square. The only drawback of linen is that it needs to be ironed quite often, as it wrinkles very easily.
Linen pocket squares are more elegant than cotton ones and can be worn with both formal jackets and casual outfits. The matte finish of linen pairs well with silk ties, as well as with wool ties.
Cotton handkerchiefs tend to be the most affordable , as cotton is not an expensive material, but they lack the same flair or vibrancy as higher-quality fabrics like silk or wool/silk blends. Cotton is generally used for handkerchiefs and is not considered a luxury fabric.
Since the purpose of the pocket square is to break up the jacket and add a little color, pattern, and variation in texture to a man's ensemble, it is suggested that the fabric of the pocket square differ from that of the suit .
So, a luxurious wool suit can be worn with a silk or linen pocket square! Or try wearing a linen pocket square with a seersucker suit in the summer!
Once you have chosen your square, the very important decision of the pocket square folds remains.
As we mentioned, you should adapt your folding technique to the occasion, but also keep in mind that certain folds will make the colors of your pocket square stand out. The classic pocket square fold is known as the flat fold or presidential fold, and it's often seen in classic photographs and television programs from the 1950s and 60s.
While it evokes images of another era, it really only works for formal events today . We advise you to experiment with slightly more flamboyant folds.
The simplest way to do this is to fold your handkerchief into a tassel. This involves pinching the center of the square, then twisting or folding it, before placing it in your breast pocket so that the corners are at the bottom and the central motif remains visible.
Not only is this fold easy to make, but it is suitable for most situations, from the office to a summer wedding.
If your square has a design that incorporates an interesting border, you'll want to make the most of it with a pointed fold or perhaps a Dunaway fold.
It is often at weddings that gentlemen like to show themselves in their best light. Even for those not normally known for their sense of sartorial elegance, it is one of the rare times a year when they are willing to make a concerted effort.
Below are three of our favorite wedding pleats, in order from most conservative to most flamboyant. Click on the image to access our pleating guide for that particular look.
The most classic of all is undoubtedly the white pocket square for men . Since the photos from the beginning of the 20th century showing a white handkerchief and a black suit, this simple square has an illustrious history.
The main reason is that this square goes with all combinations of jackets and patterns, so there aren't really any rules to consider when choosing your outfit.
The classic and discreet look is the flat fold, as illustrated below on the left. This is the most formal look and is suitable for any situation and event you might attend.
We recommend enhancing this simple square by adding a touch of color, either in the fold or by edging it with color.
A look that is always timeless is the combination of the white square and the navy suit, as you can see below.
A pocket square is generally used to add a touch of style to your outfit, with contrast usually being the main objective. A black pocket square, paired with a navy or dark black jacket, is an exception to this rule.
Often used in more formal settings, it can give you a very polished look. However, the main problem is that your sartorial efforts are often not noticeable until others are within reach.
We believe that if you're looking to get the praise you deserve with a black pocket square, you should opt for a square with a subtle pattern or a classic white drawstring. The white border will always provide that crisp contrast that beautifully complements the jacket.
Generally speaking, there are no distinct rules for pairing a pocket square with a suit compared to wearing a sports jacket or blazer. However, there are a few things to keep in mind.
First, a suit is a more formal option than a standalone jacket, and you'll therefore often wear it in a more formal setting. Consequently, the safest choice is to wear a plain or very lightly patterned blazer in a presidential fold such as the one shown below.
The next thing to consider is the pattern of the suit. Depending on your personal style, if you opt for a bolder pattern with your suit, more formal etiquette will dictate choosing a more solid-colored pocket square fly to ensure balance .
Note the square in the image below which complements the shirt colour for a beautifully balanced look, perfect for a professional environment.
Finally, there's the more flamboyant look, where the accessories contrast with the suit's color. In the image below, you have a navy blue suit with a small touch of burgundy in the pocket square, which complements the tie.
This style is our favorite for a suit because it's not over the top, but it demonstrates sartorial flair to leave a lasting impression.
We are often asked what color pocket square best suits a navy suit, as it's a classic. Fortunately, a plain navy suit is essentially a blank canvas, so it's more a matter of choosing a color or pattern appropriate for the setting, whether it's business or more casual .
There are three classic options for sleeve design : solid color, repeating pattern, and print . Repeating patterns were the traditional choice for much of the 20th century and remain very popular. Prints can consist of historical artwork, modern art, graphic designs, or photographs.
There are three possibilities when it comes to matching your tie to your pocket square if you decide to wear a pattern or print:
One of the most interesting aspects of the pocket square is that it is incredibly versatile and very subtle changes can have a considerable impact on your style.
The color you choose and the fold you use depend on the color of your outfit, the nature of the occasion, whether it is professional or more formal like a wedding, and your personal style.
When choosing a pocket square to wear with a suit, you can opt for a classic fold, such as a flat fold, and position it so that it is visible above your pocket.
While you use colors that contrast sharply with your jacket and employ a more flamboyant fold that truly draws the eye, below are a few examples from our Instagram feed of both more conservative and more flamboyant looks that demonstrate how to wear a clutch.
First, you'll find some more conservative styles below. The pocket square is quite subtle in its placement, and the colors complement the other shades in the outfit.
In comparison, here are some images that are more flamboyant, either through color contrast or folding. With the most flamboyant styles, the square naturally draws the eye and is more striking.
In this case, it is preferable that one of the secondary colors of the handkerchief be the primary color of the tie.
For a more subtle analog look, you can opt for the same tie color in a different shade, which is then repeated in the handkerchief.
If both the tie and the pocket square have patterns or prints, it is imperative that the proportions and spacing of the patterns be different, even if the actual patterns are not.
If your tie has thin stripes, your pocket square can also have stripes - but bear in mind that they should be thicker, block stripes.
Similarly, a small checkered tie will work well with a polka dot pocket square, provided that the dots are large and widely spaced, not small dots.
A polka-dot pocket square would work well with a tie featuring wider stripes. The goal is to create visual contrast, and the best way to achieve this is to space out and proportion the patterns!
In this case, the same rules as for the first combination apply (plain tie and patterned pocket square) . Similarly, the combination will be visually appealing if a secondary color of the tie is the main color of the pocket square.
For an exquisite selection of printed silk ties that will add undeniable color and style to your outfit, please click here!
Some people have a preconceived notion of the type of occasion for which a pocket square should be worn: a formal event requiring a suit and tie, James Bond . Conversely, a pocket square can be a casual accessory that adds a touch of flair to an open shirt and jacket combination..
It is possible to buy pre-folded folders, or a folder holder that effectively keeps your fold in place. We strongly advise against these products for two obvious reasons.
First of all, if your pouch is the right size, 40 to 45 cm for most fabrics such as silk, linen or cotton, or about 30 cm for heavier fabrics like tweed, there is enough volume in the fabric to hold any crease firmly in place.
Secondly, by carrying a pocket square, you instantly elevate your style, showing that you are a man with flair and panache.
For this same man, relying on a pocket square folding chart is like wearing a clip-on tie, which is rather embarrassing if it's noticed.
Simple handkerchief folds, such as the accordion fold or the two-point fold, are easy to master and give you the opportunity to display your personality , while taking the time to master a complicated fold can be both enjoyable and create a real conversation starter at your event or occasion.
In summary, at Cravate Gentleman, we believe that the pocket square is an incredibly versatile accessory, allowing the modern man to express himself and vary his look without having to invest in different suits and outerwear.
You may be interested in our series of articles on shirt-tie combinations , which will give you more information on how to match your accessories to get the most out of your outfit.
Okay, let's face it, that's a lot of information to take in. Here's our summary of the rules for matching your ties to your pocket squares.
1. Use a color wheel! A color wheel provides the perfect basis for improving your understanding of color theory.
If you are just starting to experiment with your style, it is best to opt for a neutral look (e.g., neutral colors like gray or brown) or monochrome (e.g., a navy tie with a blue pocket square).
From there, you can move on to a similar color scheme (adjacent colors like a purple tie and a blue pocket square), a triadic color scheme (colors like a blue tie and a red pocket square), or the boldest of all, a complementary color scheme (diametrically opposed colors like an orange tie and a blue pocket square).
2. The most important consideration for mixing patterns is to ensure that the proportions of the pattern vary.
Thus, a small polka dot handkerchief with a polka dot tie is much more effective than an abstract tie/scarf and a polka dot handkerchief with the same proportions.
The differences in proportions, which refer to the amount of spacing in the pattern (relative to the other pattern), are what allow for the greatest possible contrast between the patterns.
3. Varying the fabrics. Mixing fabrics, especially when the season allows, is an exceptional way to enhance the aesthetics of your outfit!
For example, pairing a linen pocket square with a silk tie is a great way to add intrigue to your outfit during the spring and summer months!
And that's all for now! I hope you enjoyed reading this article as much as I enjoyed writing it!
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